I didn’t know what a sundown town was until I moved to St. Louis. And I’ll be honest, it still jars me to hear people describe it casually, as in this deeply personal segment of the local TV show “Food Is Love.” I don’t want to give away spoilers about what Chef Lasse Sorensen learns about his own complicity in this episode, which aired in 2022. But I commend him for his brutal honesty in sharing the lesson publicly as it unfolded.